Johnetta Boone helps set the scene in an intense episode of Yellowstone.
As the true details of John Dutton’s death unravel, Season 5, Episode 11, titled “Three Fifty-Three” was full of intense moments and harbingers that hint at what’s to come of Beth, Kayce, and Jamie, and moreso, the ranch at large. Johnetta Boone, costume designer for Yellowstone, adds intensity and foreboding to scenes through color choices, angles, and even the right pair of shoes. “Always, my inspiration is impacted by the content in the story and the development of the characters,” Boone tells C&I. “The plot is very dynamic, aggressive, and protective with a twist on very specific moments of empathy. This drives the color palette for and the shapes of the clothing details.”
There is a palpable sense of grief throughout Episode 11, coupled with intense moments of passionate anger and resentment. From Kayce’s investigation into John Dutton’s cause of death, to intense accusations expressed in Jamie’s office, to Sarah Atwood’s unexpected death, there is much to unpack emotionally. In these intense moments, Boone drives home the importance of intricate, intentional details to help grip the emotional charge of each scene. “The angles tell the story,” Boone says, “and in cases where the footwear is actually seen, the footwear also tells the story for some.”
As alliances and relationships continue to evolve, subtle wardrobe changes move with the characters’ moods and emotions. We see this in the emotional scene between Kayce and Jamie, when Kayce confronts his brother about their father’s death. “The environment was a very somber tone of mourning,” Boone says. “It was important to remind the viewer where we were previously. Kayce, however, remains the same. His type of business has to vanish within the environment of battle and grit.” Many costume choices go beyond simple fashion, helping to guide the timeline of events and remind viewers of overarching moods of the season. Dark clothing drives home the air of grief and conflict throughout each episode, while classic cowboy-wear can be used to solidify the ongoing nature of ranch life — showing the work doesn’t stop, even in times of hardship.
Sarah is very unapologetic, she lacks empathy and remorse. She’s a steel seductress. The charcoal supports the telling of her ruthlessness.
While some wardrobe choices are subtle, others are very distinctive. Sarah Atwood, the cold, calculated temptress, completes her off-putting aura with an unsettling signature color: charcoal. “Sarah is very unapologetic, she lacks empathy and remorse,” Boone says. “She’s a steel seductress. The charcoal supports the telling of her ruthlessness.” Even as the end of the episode comes to a climax depicting Sarah’s demise, her style remains true to the corrupted heart of her character, highlighting her aptitude for dark seduction. “The dress Sarah Atwood wears may resonate with the viewing audience…The pleats, shapes, and curves of Sarah’s dress that frame her silhouette [continue to] remind you that she is a woman.”
As the story continues to unfold, Dutton family tensions are boiling over as every character seeks to hold onto power, legacy, and overall, dominion over the future of the Yellowstone. While we look for the next turn of events, it’s pertinent to tune into the wardrobe for context clues. A powerful cut of a suit, a signature wardrobe color, or a pair of heels can subtly tell viewers about each character’s internal dialogue, the significance of a scene, or an ode to personal growth or change.
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