Lonesome Dove Western Bistro: Serving Up 25 Years Of A Trailblazing Menu

It’s the 40^th anniversary year of Larry McMurtry’s Lonesome Dove novel, and it coincides with the 25^th anniversary of another landmark achievement: Tim Love’s Lonesome Dove Western Bistro in Fort Worth, Texas.

Snow-aged Wagyu, squid tacos, and foie gras cappuccinos have all delighted diners over the last 25 years at Lonesome Dove, the celebrity chef’s flagship in the historic Fort Worth Stockyards. What began as a renegade idea — fine dining in the then-rough-and-tumble Stockyards — is now an award-winning icon of innovative Western cuisine.

“Lonesome Dove to me is really bold, in your face, no holds barred,” says Love, who opened the restaurant in June 2000 with a propane stove. When he was trying to think of a name for his restaurant and saw a vintage map of Texas at Railhead BBQ with the Lonesome Dove Trail on it, that was that. The book had just been out for 15 years and was still very popular.

The power of that name association and the inspired food Love was creating at his Western bistro launched a rise to fame for the chef, who now owns 13 eateries and bars. Seven are in the Stockyards, no longer a questionable neighborhood but a thriving entertainment hub with stylish restaurants and fashion boutiques housed in converted mule barns.

Lonesome Dove’s menu has evolved with the Stockyards’ renaissance, but Love’s culinary philosophy remains true to its roots. “Lonesome Dove is kind of where my mindset started,” he says. “Lots of flavors from the Southwest, the West, the South — all those combined with my upbringing as a kid, hunting and fishing. Spicy, loud food, if you will. That’s really what I built my whole career off of.”

What’s for Dinner?

Bold flavors shine on the new menu, which takes inspiration from Lonesome Dove’s 25^th birthday celebration earlier this year: a series of 25-course tasting dinners featuring classic dishes from the vault along with exciting novelties. Many of the event’s top crowd-pleasers are now on the regular menu — or rather menus plural, as the restaurant prints a different one every day.

Love likes a seafood start to his meal, and new appetizers include snapper ceviche with a satisfying corn-nut crunch and delicate squid tacos on blue masa. Guests will also see more Asian influences on the menu, such as kangaroo larb (Laotian minced meat salad) on crisp poached kohlrabi. “Sharp, zesty, citrus — I just love the dynamic of those flavors,” Love says. “I love the simplicity of it. I’ve been digging Asian flavors and figuring out ways to combine them with wild game.”

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Wild game and unexpected meats have long been a staple at Lonesome Dove and are featured in signature recipes like kangaroo nachos, rattlesnake-rabbit sausage, and elk loin with candied blueberries. Now Love is expanding his game-bird offerings, including an earthy quail dish with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and a buttery risottolike Parmesan oatmeal. He'll also be adding squab, a personal favorite that appeared on the 25-course menu with a cherry demi-glace and Funyuns dust. “Every time I add squab to a tasting menu, people love it,” he says. “Then I put it on the restaurant menu and sell like one every 40 days. People just don't know what it is. But it's such a great bird, and it’s really delicious.”

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Beefing Up the Steak List

Beef is still king in Texas, and Lonesome Dove’s new reserve steak menu arrives in a custom leather holder by M.L. Leddy’s bootmaker. “It’s this beautiful presentation of five cuts of meat from around the world that are all completely different.” Sink your teeth into a marbled ribeye cap from Sulphur Springs, Texas, or try a slice of snow-aged A5 (the highest grade of wagyu) from Niigata Prefecture, Japan. Wagyu cattle have much more intramuscular fat than Angus, and A5 has the most of all, so rich it practically melts in your mouth. “It’s literally aged in igloos, and, man, it’s off-the-charts good. For me, I can only have probably two ounces, and I’ve had all I need.”

Serving finer cuts in smaller amounts is a rising trend at high-end steakhouses. “I wouldn’t say that the days of ordering a 20-ounce ribeye and heavy potatoes are gone, but people are getting a little more sophisticated about eating meat. They’re eating a bit less of it, and they want to try cool new things — something more adventurous and a little crazier,” Love says. “I’m one of those people. I used to eat a big New York strip, and now I prefer to have four ounces of something and be done. But I want really delicious and really interesting and dynamic.”

Wines Refined and a New Backyard

Diners’ increased sophistication has also fueled a surge in Old World wines at Lonesome Dove. “We’re buying a lot more French and Italian wines,” Love says. “I’ve really been into a little bit dirtier wines, a little thinner, and our guests seem to be the same. Our Old World list has really increased over the last 18 months.” Cocktail fans will find creative new libations with a variety of spirits, especially American whiskeys. “There’s a lot more demand for whiskey than we've had in a while, which is interesting.”

(If you indulge a little too much to get behind the wheel, see if there’s room at Love’s Hotel Otto in the nearby River District and Uber the five miles over to the shipping-container micro-resort, where, besides unique accommodations, you can enjoy an extensive Italian menu at his award-winning Gemelle restaurant.)

But back to Lonesome Dove and what might be the piece de resistance: that foie gras cappuccino? It was the star of the 25 courses, a silky cup of fresh espresso, foie gras, and orange cream with a touch of chili and rosemary. “That was the dish. People were like, ‘I don’t get it.’ But then they try it, and they think it’s the greatest thing they’ve ever had. Minds blown,” says Love, who hasn’t put the dish on the menu just yet. “I don’t really know where it fits, but everybody loved it. So we may venture into a small, six- to eight-course tasting menu this fall.”

Also coming this autumn: a revamped courtyard. With shade trees and a pretty natural setting overlooking Marine Creek, the open-air dining space already occupies a prime position. Love’s Tex-Mex restaurant Paloma Suerte and music venue Tannahill’s Tavern are just across the water. “Our backyard is our new focus. We’re going to build an outdoor bar around the fire pit and get live music outside.”

The Stockyards continues to evolve, with Phase 2 of its redevelopment beginning soon with new hotels, commercial spaces, and underground parking lots. But some things will stay the same. “The Stockyards has this heart and core that literally, in my opinion, is unbreakable,” Love says. “Its history and authenticity can never be changed.” For 25 years, Lonesome Dove has been part of that history and looks toward a promising future.

As Love likes to say, “Eat, drink, and live well!”

RECIPES: FOOD TO LOVE, COURTESY OF TIM LOVE

Foie Gras Cappuccino, Orange Foam

Rendered Foie Gras: Ingredients

• 2 pounds foie gras, cleaned and trimmed
• ¼ cup Tim Love Game Rub
• Orange-coffee infusion
• 3 quarts fresh-squeezed orange juice, strained
• 2 Ounces freshly ground coffee beans
• Orange foam
• 1 quart heavy cream
• 1 ounce powdered sugar, sifted
• 2 tablespoons orange zest
• 1 ounce fresh orange juice

Directions

1. Render the foie gras.

• Season foie slices on both sides with game rub.
• In a large sauté pan over medium-low heat, place about 1 pound of foie at a time (don’t overcrowd).
• Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, flipping occasionally, until most of the fat has rendered out and the pieces are golden brown.
• Remove the foie and strain the fat through a fine sieve. Set the foie aside for another use and save all rendered fat — you’ll need it for the infusion.

2. Make the orange-coffee infusion.

• In a pot, combine orange juice and coffee grounds.
• Bring to a simmer over medium heat and reduce by about 40 percent, or until the liquid has a rich, concentrated flavor.
• Strain out the coffee grounds using a fine mesh strainer.
• While the juice is still warm, use an immersion blender to slowly blend in the rendered foie fat until smooth and emulsified. Keep warm for serving.

3. Prepare the orange foam.

• In a stand mixer with a whisk attachment (or using a hand mixer), beat the heavy cream, orange zest, and orange juice on medium until soft peaks form.
• Lower the speed and slowly sift in the powdered sugar.
• Return to medium speed and whip until you have medium-firm peaks.
• Transfer to a container and refrigerate until ready to serve.

To serve: Foie Cappuccino Build.

• Pour 6 ounces of the warm orange-coffee infusion into small cups or mugs.
• Spoon or pipe a generous dollop of orange foam on top.
• Finish with a pinch of game rub as garnish.

Elk Loin, Salsify, Candied Grapes

Ingredients

• 4 ounces elk loin
• 2 ounces maitake (hen-of-the-woods) mushrooms
• 2 whole Swiss chard leaves
• 1 ounces salsify purée (recipe follows)
• 4 candied grapes (recipe follows)
• ½ ounce Tim Love Game Rub
• Pinch of chili flakes
• 1 ounce melted butter
• Salt and pepper

Candied Grapes

• 1 bunch red seedless grapes
• 3 egg whites (beaten frothy)
• 2 cups sugar
• 1 tablespoon chili powder

Directions

1. Crisp the Swiss chard.

• Trim Swiss chard leaves to about 6 inches tall.
• Heat oil in a deep pan to 350 degrees.
• Fry chard leaves until crispy and bright green, about 30 to 45 seconds.
• Drain on paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

2. Fry the mushrooms.

• Break maitake mushrooms into large bite-size clumps.
• Fry in the same oil until crispy and golden (about 1 to 2 minutes).
• Toss with melted butter, a pinch of chili flakes, and salt and pepper. Keep warm.

3. Cook the elk loin.

• Season elk loin evenly with game rub.
• Heat a skillet or griddle over high heat with a bit of oil.
• Sear elk loin on all sides until browned.
• Cook to your preferred doneness (medium-rare recommended).
• Remove from heat and let rest.

4. Plate.

• Place candied grapes around the plate.
• Slice the rested elk loin on a bias into 3 equal pieces and plate.
• Top with the crispy chard, crispy mushroom.

For more information, visit Tim Love and Lonesome Dove at lonesomedovefortworth.com.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy of Zac Simmons/Love Management/6th Ave/Daniel Hooks