The mountains are calling, and you must go.
Situated near Yellowstone National Park, Cody, Wyoming, is a small town (population 10,000) surrounded by mountains and a national forest that are a winter adventurer’s dream. Cody is known for its nightly summer rodeos, Western culture, Buffalo Bill history, and proximity to Yellowstone. Yet many people miss out on the beauty of Cody in the winter, instead visiting in warmer months and when everything has thawed. But the area is truly beautiful in winter, with plenty of outdoor opportunities all around. Here, how to experience Cody, Wyoming, in all of its winter glory.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Wyoming Ice Festival
Ice Climbing
Outdoor enthusiasts should consider going ice climbing in Cody, as the South Fork Canyon near Cody has the highest concentration of ice falls in all the lower 48 states, making the area a haven for thrill seekers. The ice here melts and freezes repeatedly in winter, making it strong and sturdy from November through early April. Throughout the area, you’ll find a wide array of ice climbs with various difficulty levels for beginners, intermediate, and expert climbers. Some ice falls cascade down cliffsides, while others are freestanding columns of ice, hanging off cliffs like gigantic icicles.
The Wyoming Ice Festival, which takes place each January, is a great way to ice climb, no matter your experience level. Small groups from beginners to experts head out each day with veteran ice climbers and guides, where they learn how to properly ice climb and improve technique in a safe way. The Festival is run by professional ice climber Aaron Mulkey, who has been exploring the South Fork Canyon since the ‘90s, discovering new and thrilling ice climbs year after year. You can also take an ice climbing course — from beginner to advanced — with Wyoming Mountain Guides.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Wyoming Ice Festival
Snowmobiling
From December 15 to March 15 Gary Gales Outfitting runs snowmobile tours through snowy Yellowstone National Park. They are the only outfitter with eastside park access, guiding snowmobilers through Sylvan Pass and along the Yellowstone River to Yellowstone Canyon and Falls. Zip through the snow under alpine forests while stopping along the way to spot wildlife. Bison are aplenty, but you might also see bald eagles, otters, elk, mule deer, and moose. If you’re lucky, you’ll have a “Triple Dog Day,” a rare occasion that only happens a few times each season where you’ll see wolves, coyote, and foxes all in one day.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Amanda Ogle
Snowshoeing
For something a bit calmer, snowshoeing is a great way to explore Cody’s wintry landscape. At the Pahaska Tepee, near the Yellowstone National Park east entrance, the Park County Nordic Ski Association maintains 12 miles of skiing and snowshoeing trails on public land in the Shoshone National Forest. Closer to town, there are also spots along the Dead Indian Pass in the Shoshone National Forest, just off the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. From here, see views of the Beartooth Mountains and Sunlight Basin. In Cody, Sunlight Sports offers snowshoe rentals.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Amanda Ogle
Where To Stay
Chamberlin Inn
Built in 1901, the Chamberlin Inn offers rooms and small apartments that give you plenty of space for all of your bulky winter gear. Rooms are situated around the hotel’s private garden and courtyard, and the hotel bar is a favorite for locals and travelers alike. The sunroom is a great place to warm up, or you can grab a spot by the fireplace.
The Cody Hotel
Complete with an indoor pool and complimentary nightly refreshments in the lobby, The Cody Hotel is a modern property with rustic touches. Relax in the indoor hot tub or library, or sit by the outdoor fire pit on chilly nights.
Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel
Opened in 1902, the Irma is a Victorian-style hotel named for Buffalo Bill’s daughter, Irma. You can stay in Buffalo Bill’s private suite, or belly up at the hotel’s cherry wood bar, which was a gift from Queen Victoria to Buffalo Bill.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Cody Yellowstone
Where To Eat
Sitti’s Table
Arguably the best restaurant in Cody, Sitti’s Table serves Middle Eastern and Mediterranean dishes for breakfast and lunch in their small but cozy space. A Jerusalem bagel with lox and labneh is a highlight at breakfast, and matbucha salsa gives the breakfast burrito a Moroccan twist. For lunch, the wagyu steak shawarma is an excellent choice, and the hummus and pita is a must.
The Station by Cody Coffee
Once a gas station, The Station is now a casual café serving breakfast and lunch, plus artisan coffee and smoothies. Sandwiches and salads are available for lunch, but a big menu focus is on sweet and savory crepes. Try the California Dreaming crepe, which comes with bananas, strawberries, Nutella, and whipped cream, or the Mountain Man complete with ham, green peppers, cheddar cheese, onions, and mushrooms.
8th Street at The Ivy
With American fare and local beers, 8th Street at The Ivy is great for a nice dinner after a day of exploring. Filet mignon, caprese salad, seared ahi tuna, and grilled old-fashioned meatloaf are popular menu items — but burgers, wraps, and pasta also occupy the menu.
Blanca Tatanka
Find live music, craft cocktails, and elevated bar bites at Blanca Tatanka. Wonton nachos with Asian barbecue sauce and brisket, lobster rolls, pork belly tacos, pizzas, salads, and chicken wings are available. Try the sliders with caramelized onions and goat cheese bacon jam.
Trailhead Bar and Grill
Just off the main street, Trailhead Bar and Grill focuses on wood-fired pizzas, plus specialties like bison Bolognese and chicken confit. Charcuterie boards, fried Brussels sprouts, and pork belly sliders accompany the appetizers, and there are also soups and salads.
Pat’s Brew House
Pub grub is the name of the game at Pat’s Brew House. Beyond the basics like burgers and pretzel bites, you’ll find Irish eggrolls, grain bowls, fish and chips, and jambalaya. House-made brews include stouts, IPAs, ambers, and even a dunkelweizen.
Aside from offering hiking tours through Cody, Dave Leo with Hiking Buddy also leads curated food tours through Cody, taking travelers to numerous stops for drinks, appetizers, main courses, and dessert.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Cody Yellowstone
Where To Warm Up
Heart Mountain Interpretive Center
Just outside of Cody in Powell, the Heart Mountain Interpretive Center tells the story of Heart Mountain, where more than 14,000 Japanese Americans were unjustly confined during WWII. Photos, interactive exhibits, artifacts, and oral histories help tell their stories, and you’ll learn about their forced relocation here and what life was like within the camp.
Buffalo Bill Center of the West
The sprawling Buffalo Bill Center of the West includes five museums in one: the Whitney Western Art Museum, Buffalo Bill Museum, Plains Indian Museum, Cody Firearms Museum, and the Draper Natural History Museum. Learn about the life of Buffalo Bill and Native American cultures, plus the nature and ecosystems of the Yellowstone area. The Whitney holds art from esteemed artists such as Frederic Remington and Charles M. Russell, and the Firearms Museum has more than 10,000 artifacts in the collection.
Downtown Shopping
Throughout downtown, find shops with everything from souvenir sweatshirts to fine jewelry and leather goods. Yellowstone Gift Shop is the largest and most popular traditional gift shop, and Wyoming Buffalo Company is a unique Western store with wild game jerky, bison leather wallets, and gifts. For a pair of cowboy boots or winter boots, Wayne’s Boot Shop is a staple.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Cody Yellowstone
PHOTOGRAPHY: (Cover image) Courtesy Cody Yellowstone
