There’s more to wearing a cowboy hat than meets the eye. Get started with this guide to the best cowboy hat shapes for you.
There’s nothing quite as iconic as the cowboy hat. Worn by generations of range-riding and on-screen cowboys, ranchers, and country singers, it’s a symbol of American history and ideals, expressing a sense of style that is highly personal to the wearer. They say you can tell a lot about a man by the hat he wears, so how do you find your perfect fit? Start with the classics.
We’re breaking down five styles that have stood the test of time and Western legend, making them foolproof staples in your wardrobe.
The Cattleman
The quintessential cowboy hat horsemen prefer.
The crown jewel of cowboy hats, the Cattleman is in its own league of Westernwear tradition. It’s the hat you picture when you hear cowboy — a high-crown with three crisp creases and a gently curved brim. The Cattleman has been the gold standard of Western headwear for over a century, favored by working ranchers, rodeo athletes, and Westerners who gravitate toward a clean, traditional look.
Who Wears It?
This is the hat of the cowboy purist — the men (and women) who stick closely to tradition on horseback and beyond. The Cattleman is a favorite among ranchers, rodeo fans, and even country music stars, such as George Strait, who stays true to his classic cowboy uniform on stage.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy of Resistol
The Gus
Rugged, with a touch of Western romance.
The Gus is named after the beloved character Augustus “Gus” McCrae from Lonesome Dove, capturing the book and film adaptation’s poetic charm with a wildly rugged finish. It features a tall crown with three deep creases, sloping forward like it’s leaning into the wind. While the style has been worn since the 1800s, Robert Duvall’s iconic character embodied the hat’s personality, bringing it newfound popularity. The Gus combines old-school cool with a flair for the dramatic — part frontier, part outlaw, and 100 percent cowboy attitude.
Who Wears It?
If you favor the Gus crease, chances are you’ve got a soft spot for Western nostalgia. Anyone with a well-worn copy of Lonesome Dove on their bookshelf will naturally gravitate toward this style, but it’s also a favorite of working cowboys farther West. In addition to Robert Duvall, Kelly Reilly has also sported the Gus crease as Beth in Yellowstone. A true on-screen classic, the Gus is for the rugged romantics and poets of the West.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy of Stetson
The Brick
Rough-stock ready, in every arena.
The Brick crease is easily recognizable in the rodeo arena, making its mark as a favorite among rough-stock riders. Square off the top of a classic Cattleman, and you’ve got the Brick crease. It’s a sharp, structured look that still holds a touch of classic cowboy charm. With crisp edges and a straight-to-the-point profile, the Brick is all about business in the arena, and out.
Who Wears It?
If you wear a Brick, you’re likely the kind of person who respects tradition but isn’t afraid to push a few boundaries. It’s the hat of bull riders, country artists, and Westerners who like their Westernwear with an edge. Mavericks in their own right, Cody Johnson and Tuff Hedeman are fans of the Brick crease, solidifying the style’s influence across Western spheres.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy of Lucchese
The Pinch-Front
Modern with nods to Western tradition.
Modern West takes shape in the Pinch-Front crease, also known as the Derby — a fashion-forward style that has a bit more flash that’s wearable across the board. Sporting a sloped crown that tapers just enough to make it stand out, this style has a touch of unexpected twang. Casual enough for an all-day music festival while refined enough for the country club, the Pinch-Front has its own panache that’s appealing to admirers of the West who are looking to dip a toe into Westernwear, alongside well-versed cowboys who aim for an all-around style approach.
Who Wears It?
The Pinch-Front is a go-to for country music fans and fashion-forward collectors. If you’re rocking a Pinch-Front, you have an eye for style and an appreciation for Westernwear that may be less on-the-nose. And you’re in good company: John Wayne’s wardrobe often included Pinch-Front styles, particularly on the set of True Grit. If your style can stand next to The Duke, you’re no slouch in the got-grit department.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy of Tecovas
The Tom Mix
Hollywood’s favorite cowboy hat.
The original 10-gallon hat, the Tom Mix is characterized by its larger-than-life appearance and fame on the silver screen. Named after the silent-film star and Western legend Tom Mix, this hat is big, bold, and packed with old-school character. The Tom Mix is set apart for its body, as it is built on nothing smaller than a seven-inch crown with a wide brim. The 10-gallon hat reputation comes from the pure size of the hat body, which intrinsically demands attention. It’s a throwback to the days when cowboys were larger than life, and their hats were, too.
Who Wears It?
Vintage Western fans and cowboy-history connoisseurs alike will feel most at home in a Tom Mix. It’s the hat of historians and anyone who aims to put their own stamp on Western tradition. If you’ve ever imagined yourself in an on-screen black-and-white Western role, the Tom Mix will be a perfect fit.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy of Stetson
HEADER IMAGE: Courtesy of American Hat Company
