C&I took a trip through this enchanted gem in Napa Valley. Where to stay and what to eat and drink in Yountville.
Driving into the town of Yountville we’re in awe of the perfect-looking fields of red and yellow tulips and the infinite rows of vineyard grapes in Northern California’s lavish Napa Valley. Here, wine and cuisine reign supreme. During the next three days we get to know the turf and realize …
Yountville Might Be the Epicenter of the Napa Valley
This little town is full of Michelin stars, notably with Thomas Keller’s legendary French Laundry, Bouchon Bistro, Ad Hoc, and La Calenda restaurants, plus Bouchon Bakery, where the line’s out the door at 7 a.m. for a chocolate almond croissant with a latte. There are more than a dozen wine-tasting rooms and a handful of luxe lodgings, most prominently The Estate at Yountville with its airy French country-style sanctuaries, footbridges, and waterways at its Vintage House (voted the most beautiful boutique hotel in Napa), polished retreats at its Mediterranean-style Villagio with Italian gardens and cobblestone courtyards, and its serene spa (I had the Illuminating C Facial for collagen stimulation).
The town itself is completely strollable at a mile and a half from one end to the other. No parking meters. Hospitality, viniculture, and gastronomy over-achieve in this idyllic "American Beauty"-ish hamlet where life seems curated for only the best experiences.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Town of Yountville
What's Hot in Yountville Now
High-end versions of burrata, pizza, and gnocchi compete on restaurant menus. So do takes on the negroni. Even fashion is extravagant: Think a vintage Valentino floral handbag, black-and-white Valentino sneakers, a Chanel jacket, and, yes, jeans with intricate cowboy boots on one vintner. There’s a chakra-balancing spa on the main drag (it’s called Divine Chakra); patio dining with heat lamps galore; and lavish wine tastings paired with bacon, potato chips, bread, and goat butters, and to-die-for cheese and charcuterie boards. Also in the mix: outdoor sculptures, electric bikes, and balloon rides.
An Unforgettable Lunch
Launched by Emmy-winning TV host and chef the late Michael Chiarello, Bottega Napa Valley is one of Yountville’s most luxurious, delectable, and in-demand restaurants for a reservation. In a swanky setting of Venetian plaster and Murano-glass chandeliers, the food and service are impeccable. The burrata with rosemary-scented persimmons, pistachio pesto, and balsamic syrup is delicately sublime, while the so-fresh Insalata di Pera abounds with Bartlett pears, frisée, arugula, red endive, Gorgonzola cheese, candied walnuts, and a Verjus blanc vinaigrette. No less than Sophia Loren celebrated her 80th birthday at this destination restaurant.
A delicious meal from Bottega Napa Valley (PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Wolf Schneider).
Dinner With Locals
Locals in jeans, boots, and plaid shackets flock to the tiny mid-century-themed Ciccio for its wood-fired pizzas. This spot is a hot ticket since being reopened by Michelin-starred chef Christopher Kostow. Try the chopped salad with fermented vegetables and the lamb sausage pizza with cherry pepper, parmesan, garlic, and chives.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Ciccio
Everyone’s Talkin’ About It
Just opened in 2023, The Kitchen at Priest Ranch is an elevated casual joint where executive chef Dan Solomon has already won a competition for the best smashburger in town. His KPR Smashburger is a brisket and chuck blend with grilled onion, American cheese, house pickle, lettuce, tomato, and KPR sauce on a Bouchon bun, which he pairs with a 2019 cabernet sauvignon. “It's as if In-N-Out and McDonald’s had a baby, but better,” Solomon says. Also on offer since Solomon got lured here from Chicago is a The Bear-influenced Italian beef sandwich with slow-roasted top sirloin, house giardiniera, and Double Barrel beef jus. Don’t worry — “I don’t scream at the guys,” Solomon assures.
Most Glittery Ambience
Combining food, wine, and design, the decorative RH Restaurant at the Restoration Hardware enclave boasts chandeliers and olive trees aplenty adorning tables in gazebos. Try the Crispy Artichokes with Potato and Rosemary Aioli.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Town of Yountville
Most Satisfying Tasting Room
At the Priest Ranch Tasting Room, the wines on offer are cabernet Sauvignons, a malbec-merlot blend, and a sparkling brut rosé, all paired with a scrumptious cheese and charcuterie board consisting of a creamy French sheep cheese shaved to look like a white carnation, truffle salami, a creamy goat cheese with Asian spices, quince paste, cheddar cheese dipped in red wine, almonds, and rosemary crackers.
Tasting Room With a Texas Connection
Stewart Cellars offers a Portfolio Flight with a sauvignon blanc, Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay, Oakville Zinfandel, and Yountville Cabernet Sauvignon. They recommend the zin paired with barbecued brisket. CEO-co-owner Caroline Stewart Guthrie, who is from Houston, runs this family winery. “We have such a huge fan base for our cabs, especially among our Texas clientele,” she says. “A few of them that live in Fredericksburg [Texas] like to send me barbecue sauce every now and then.”
Winemaker, Blair Guthrie and CEO, Caroline Stewart Guthrie (PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Stewart Cellars).
Tasting Room With Tunes
At Handwritten Wines, senior wine curator “V” creates a chill vibe with Amy Winehouse on the sound system as she explains the flavor profiles of the Homage Blend of cab franc, petite syrah, petite Bordeaux, and cabernet sauvignon. “It’s vanilla, toasted marshmallow, crème brûlée, and bright fruit, which pairs well with bread and butters,” V says. “I want you to drink good wine, relax, learn something, laugh a little. And I curate to the individual.”
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Town of Yountville
Why Cab Is King in Napa
With more than 450 wineries — many of them family-owned — Napa Valley is known for its big, bold reds. The region has a giant rep for the best wines in the U.S. even though only 4 percent of the wine made in California comes from Napa. The secret? It starts with the weather. The grapes love how it’s 90 degrees during the day and 50 degrees at night during the summer. New winery trends are taking place with more sustainable production and processing, such as dry farming, wherein vines are trained to find water deeper in the ground, and aging wine in large concrete eggs instead of oak barrels.
Visit Napa for Harvest
Harvest time is August for the sparkling wines, September for the whites, October for the reds, and November for the sauternes.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Courtesy Town of Yountville
