Celebrate
the Holidays with Some of the World's Finest Wines
By Darryl Beeson
Photography by Gary Blockley
In
vino veritas. This ancient Latin aphorism applies to more than just
conversation. Over the past few decades, a once-preposterous notion—that
outside of Europe no top-tier wines existed—has become an uncontestable
fact.
Since the 1960s, some of the world's finest wines have been created and
crafted in the American West. Need proof? Try any of the wonderful reds
or sparkling suggestions featured in C&I's holiday selection.
Over the last century or so, wine connoisseurs and serious oenophiles
have scoffed at the notion that the sacred soils of Burgundy and Bordeaux
could be challenged by any wine-growing region, especially one found in
the New World.
Even though many of the finest French root stocks were wiped out in the
mid-19th century (and were later revitalized with American grafts), the
notion of American parity was a promotional ruse, a canard, as
the French would say. That is until 1976.
It was during the American Bicentennial that a British wine merchant based
in Paris by the name of Stephen Spurrier proposed to honor American wines
by having a panel of French ex-perts taste-test them.
What Spurrier failed to tell anyone was that in this very public event,
not only were the finest American wines to be included but so, too, were
the finest French wines of exactly the same grape varietal. Of course
all the wines, French and American, were tasted blindly. And when the
totals were tallied, what did these French experts select in the red category
but a cabernet sauvignon from California's Stag's Leap Wine Cellars.
Vive la France! Vive la California!
Despite the ruffled feathers—the Brits have a knack for doing that
with the French, you know—one need not employ chicanery to see that
since '76, Western wines have rightly come into their own as among the
world's finest. Numerous Western reds—from Napa and Sonoma, Santa
Ynez and Baja, British Columbia and the staked plains of Texas—await
the proper pairing with your holiday feasts.
The following 20 are well-suited for winter menus. Though not meant
as "Best Of" or a "Top 20" guide, their number certainly
includes some of the finest winemakers in the West. A votre santé!
St.
Francis Old Vines
1998 Zinfandel
Sonoma, California
stfranciswine.com
• $25
Though there is no legal definition of "old vines," St. Francis
took the high road with vines a minimum of 50 years old. Vines this mature
don't produce as many grapes, but the resulting wine can be concentrated
and complex. This powerhouse is chewy, packed with immense red fruit flavors.
Serve with assertively spiced foods that saw flames during preparation.
Kenwood
1997 Jack London Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma, California
kenwoodvineyards.com
• $35
Famed writer Jack London was a rancher and vineyard owner from 1905 till
his death in 1916. "Do you realize that I devote two hours a day
to writing and 10 to farming?" he wrote near his death. Drink this
gripping wine when you are hungry like a wolf.
Durney Vineyards
1995 Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon
Carmel Valley, California
durneywines.com
• $18
The vineyard, originally a cattle ranch, was founded in the mid-1970s
by Los Angelenos William Durney and his wife, Dorothy, a screenwriter.
This red may be one of the closest wines in the West to the finest of
Bordeaux. An elegant wine for elegant food.
L'Ecole
No. 41
1997 Apogee
Walla Walla Valley, Washington
lecole.com •
$38
Owner/winemaker Marty Chubb, an Aggie from Texas A&M, staked claim
in southeastern Washington and is famous for his merlots. The apogee,
a blend predominately of merlot, hails from the Pepper Bridge Vineyard,
the backbone of the Holy Grail Leonetti wine. Enjoy the L'Ecole instead,
as if you could ever find a Leonetti, and spend the $30 difference on
a fine cut of simply cooked beef or lamb.
Hedges
1997 Three Vineyards Red
Columbia Valley, Washington
hedgescellars.com
• $25
Sometimes the sum of multiple grape varieties is greater than 100 percent
of one. This masterful melding of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet
franc projects a soft, fruity aroma tasting of plums and currants. Try
this red with barbecue, grilled meat, or fowl.
Chateau
Camou
1996 El Gran Vino Tinto
Baja, Mexico
chateau-camou.com.mx
• $20
This subtle, mildly complex red—a mix of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet
franc, and merlot—is aged 13 months in French oak barrels and laid
down another 15 months in bottle, seeking even more refinement. Debuted
this past year in Aspen, it was matched to Cornish hen with black mole
from Oaxaca and queso añejo quesadilla. Try this delicate red blend,
distributed in the U.S. via San Diego, with something more refined than
Tex-Mex.
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DeLoach Vineyards
1997 OFS Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley, Sonoma
deloachvineyards.com
• $34
God touched the Russian River Valley of Sonoma, and the wines prove it.
Cecil DeLoach, a retired Bay Area firefighter, was wise to base operations
there when land was affordable. This Pinot Noir is big on elite, red fruit
flavor with a hint of the soil lilting through. Serve this Burgundian
rival with grilled, firm-fleshed fish or even delicately spiced red meat.
Rodney Strong
1998 Pinot Noir
Russian River, Sonoma
rodneystrong.com
• $18
This winery was the 13th to be bonded in historic Sonoma, and winemaker
Rick Sayre was the first student of vino-Godfather Andre Tchelistcheff.
This red is dark, packed with luscious fruit flavors and complexities
of mineral and earth. Try with roast fowl, pasta, or any seafood.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
1998 Pinot Noir
Oregon
wvv.com • $19
This winery had some difficult breaks but has rebounded nicely. Pinot
noir is a tough grape to capture. Winemaker Joe Dobbes has built a red
with intensity of color and fruit. Complexity exists from the terroir,
roughly translated as the unique soil conditions plus specific microclimate.
Serve with turkey or seafood, be that salmon or delicate sole.
Ste. Chapelle
1997 Reserve
Syrah, Idaho
corusbrands.com •
$18
This wine is neither a spud nor a dud. Classic Rhone styling of lean leather,
black pepper, and silky red fruit abound. Yes, the wine is from Idaho.
More limited distribution makes this wine worth the obvious pursuit. Match
with stewed meat and winter vegetables.
Fess Parker Winery
1998 Syrah
Santa Barbara, California
fessparker.com •
$19
Yes, this is the Fess of Davy Crockett and Daniel Boone
fame. Parker wisely invested in Santa Barbara land decades ago. His son,
Eli, is an accomplished winemaker, and the Syrah proves it. Wonderful
red fruit flavors co-exist with pepper and leather nuances. The Syrah
is perfect for any food with assertive spicing, even Christmas tamales.
Renwood
1996 Barbera
Amador County, California
renwood.com • $19
This winery is a legend for red zinfandels. The barbera, a lesser-known
Italian varietal, is snazzy with rich, velvety fruit. Consider grilled
venison with a fruit reduction sauce or lasagna with a vegetable slant.
Sebastiani
1997 Barbera
Dry Creek, Sonoma, California
sebastiani.com •
$24
Rich like velvet, hints of licorice and plum are seductive. Californian
in spirit, the Sebastiani barbera is true to its Piedmontese heritage.
Aim for lusty food pairings such as stews, tomato sauces, or even sausage.
Atlas Peak
1997 Sangiovese
Atlas Peak, Napa, California
atlaspeak.com •
$14
This is the refined and soft-spoken granddaddy of sangiovese from California.
Sangiovese is the Italian grape that brought you Chianti, and later Super
Tuscans, those attitudinal Italian responses to American cabernets, with
more backbone. Atlas Peak makes a delicate but complex red that you can
proudly serve in place of your usual merlot match.
GREAT GIFTS FOR $10
CK Mondavi Vineyards
1998 Zinfandel
California
CKMondavi.com •
$6.99
This could be the finest zinfandel for the money from California. Bright,
spicy raspberry fruit, hints of vanilla from the oak, cocoa dust, and
raisin are just a few of the flavors found within this red wine priced
for a song. CK Mondavi is the original family winery from which the Robert
Mondavi Winery sprung in the 1960s. Enjoy with venison or even pizza.
Montevina
1998 Zinfandel
California
montevina.com •
$10
From the California hills that sparked the Gold Rush comes this significant
red zinfandel. Jammy, spiced fruit flavor abounds. The price permits enjoying
this wine with pizza or burgers. Try with roast turkey or grilled chicken.
Gundlach Bundschu
1998 Bearitage Red
California
gunbun.com • $8.99
Bearitage rhymes with heritage, something the town of Sonoma possesses.
This is where the Bear Flag Rebellion in 1846 sparked California's status
as an independent republic. The Gundlach Bundschu from Sonoma captures
slurpy sensuousness in a triad of cherries, pepper, and tannic complexity.
The Bearitage blend begs for any food declaring informality.
Bogle Vineyards
1998 Petite Sirah
California
boglewinery.com •
$10
Bogle means bang for the buck. This oddity of a grape, petite sirah, is
not the same as syrah. Bogle's is soft but intense, boasting blackberry
with structure. Try with hard, smoked cheese, or any meat served with
intense, fruit-driven sauce. For fun, taste it with holiday chocolates.
Cap*rock
1998 Cabernet Sauvignon
Texas
caprockwinery.com
• $8.99
Winemakers have learned that a red wine need not knock your socks off,
packed with massive tannin, to succeed. This cabernet is a delight in
honest simplicity. A full array of fruit nuance is balanced within this
medium-bodied sip. Wines three times the price should take note. Try with
pasta and red sauce, marbled beef, or most any refined dish.
Pepi
1997 Two-Heart Canopy Sangiovese
California
Pepi.com • $12.99
A role-call vote of primary vineyard sources that includes Alexander Valley,
Santa Barbara, and Napa. Soft and delicate red fruits are the operative.
Sangiovese may be the toughest grape to capture in the West. A bit of
cedar and floral in this red commands the food be gentle, perhaps pasta
with an olive oil and garlic sauce.
BUBBLIES TO POP
Domaine Ste. Michelle
Non Vintage Cuvée Brut
Washington
winetoday.com •
$8
This could be the best value for American sparkling wine. Green apple,
lemon zest, and complex earthiness impress the drinker. Serve throughout
the meal with sushi, curry, or Thai. If with dessert, opt for the Ste.
Michelle Extra Dry at the same price.
Iron
Horse Vineyards
Non Vintage Russian Cuvée
California
ironhorsevineyards.com
• $27
Touched with a hint of sweetness, but still dry and opulently complex,
Iron Horse originally formulated this wine for the historic Reagan-Gorbachev
summit meetings ending the Cold War. According to USA Today, "an
intertwining of the arts of diplomacy and gastronomy." If Iron Horse
Russian Cuvée can work there, imagine what might happen at your
fragmented family's holiday gathering! Serve with all holiday foods.
Gruet
Brut
Non Vintage Sparkling Wine
New Mexico
vivanewmexico.com
• $12.99
This bubbly, made methode Champenoise in Albuquerque, has roots
from nearly a half a century of practice in France's Champagne region.
I matched this magic sparkler to Dean Fearing's mojo cuisine at The Mansion
on Turtle Creek in Dallas and learned later that the Waldorf-Astoria in
New York followed suit. Crisp, classic style that diversely works with
sushi, wedding proposals, or chicken-fried steak.
©2000
Cowboys & Indians