Bond with the family while rafting frothy whitewater, skiing snowy fields or riding along pristine trails on a brisk morning

Current Trends:
Whitewater Rafting

Text and Photographs by Lance Thompson

Families eager to share an unforgettable adventure find it on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, America's longest wilderness river. Over its 100-mile course through the pine-covered slopes, steep canyons and arid plains of Idaho's Frank Church/River of No Return Wilderness, the Middle Fork is alternately placid and turbulent, muted and deafening, crystal clear and frothy white. It is never dull.

The Middle Fork's most challenging rapids are rated Class IV (Class VI is the most difficult). The deep, fast water of May and early June is recommended for experts only, but after that, the age range of guests goes from 6 to 86. "The guides aren't baby sitters," explains Jean Ridle of Middle Fork River Expeditions, "but kids love it. It's a great experience for a family to share."

Guests traveling with Rocky Mountain River Tours and Middle Fork River Expeditions have a variety of craft to choose from. The oar boats, in which passengers sit up front and the guide paddles and steers from a raised central platform, are best for the youngest guests. For those who want to take a more active part, there are paddle boats in which every passenger works an oar. For teenage thrillseekers and adrenaline addicts, an inflatable kayak is the ultimate ride.

The fun doesn't stop at the water's edge. The Middle Fork is famous for its plentiful native cutthroat and west slope trout, and the catch-and-release policy ensures good dry fly fishing for beginners of all ages. An extensive trail system along the river leads to Indian house pits and petroglyphs, pioneer homesteads and abandoned mining camps. There are also several hot springs along the route, offering a chance to soak in a natural hot tub.

As the elevation drops 3,000 feet over the 100-mile course, the terrain changes from mountains to canyons to high desert, presenting an endless variety of spectacular vistas. Wildlife ranges from Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, mule deer, river otters and golden eagles to an occasional mountain lion, moose or black bear.

All 26 outfitters on the Middle Fork are bonded and certified by the Idaho Outfitters Guide Association, and access to the river is strictly limited. Outfitters pack everything in and out, right down to the ashes from the fire, so even though every campsite is in use every night, each arriving group finds a pristine stretch of shoreline and unspoiled scenery. Guides take care of the cooking and cleaning, which means everyone in the family can enjoy the trip without worrying about the chores. No motors are allowed on the river, so no upstream traffic, crowds or noise intrudes on the experience.

Six-day trips with Rocky Mountain River Tours range from $1465 to $1610 per person; Middle Fork River Expeditions charges $1295 per guest. Prices include all meals, transportation from Stanley, Idaho, to the river and back, and essential river gear like waterproof gear bags and life preservers.

A raft trip on the Middle Fork is a magnificent family adventure that offers new delights, challenges, and inspiration with every bend of the river.

Middle Fork River Expeditions:
Patrick and Jean Ridle, (800) 801-5146

Rocky Mountain River Tours:
Dave and Sheila Mills, (208) 345-2400

Stanley-Sawtooth Chamber of Commerce:
(800) 878-7950

Snowwalkers: Cross Country Skiing

By Jonathan B. Wiesel

Nordic skiing is not just marvelously graceful exercise -- it can also provide the basis for a family vacation. There are a host of splendid destinations throughout the Northern U.S. and Canada, including guest ranches, resorts, inns, lodges, B&Bs, and grand hotels.

Many of these combine beautiful settings with diverse entertainment such as spas, snowshoeing, ice skating, sledding and sleigh rides. An increasing number offer attractions such as narrow groomed tracks for children, play areas with painted plywood cutouts of wondrous creatures to ski through, special events, and an experienced staff.

Skiing Age: Children as young as four can learn to cross country ski, but it's often wiser to wait a couple of years, when they'll have more endurance and cold resistance as well as a longer attention span.

Many areas provide daycare or can arrange babysitting, and increasing numbers rent out special sleds -- "pulks" in Norwegian -- that can be pulled by a willing adult. The best of these have insulated foam interiors, lap belts, and a removable acrylic windshield, top, and rear windbreak for the child.

Even teenagers enjoy cross country, though they may prefer to spend time -- on snow or indoors -- with people their own age.

Equipment: The two most important elements in introducing a child to "skinny skiing" are comfort and fun. Boots are first priority (two reliable names are Alpina and Salomon). Some ski packages allow young 'uns to use the insulated, waterproof snow boots they may already own. When real ski boots are in order, plan to buy, trade-in or swap a new pair every year. Cross Country Ski Headquarters in Roscommon, Michigan (800-832-2663) is an excellent mail-order choice for kids' equipment. A few areas carry a good selection of children's gear.

On your outings, bring plenty of snacks as well as fluids (hot chocolate always seems popular) and avoid dehydration. Carry extra clothing, since children excel at getting theirs wet, which can swiftly translate into chill. It's also important not to stray too far from warmth and shelter in case of either cold or boredom.

School Days: Since winter coincides with the school year, parents may be concerned that a ski vacation cuts into learning. Do schedule trips during holidays or long weekends, when there may also be other children around. On the other hand, some parents feel that an occasion for the family to spend relaxed time together more than makes up for a few missed school days.

Resources: For details on North American destinations, contact Cross Country Ski Areas Association (603-239-4341); or see the book Cross-Country Ski Vacations: A Guide to the Best Resorts, Lodges, and Groomed Trails in North America (1997, John Muir Publications, Santa Fe, New Mexico). Cross Country Skier Magazine has just produced Gearing Up, an introduction to Nordic equipment (612-377-0312).

Go Western Altogether: Dude Ranches

By Kate Winslow

As all good cowboys know, it's never too early to start your kids on horseback. As the popularity of the West grows, ranch vacations are becoming an ever more popular choice for families all over the country. Guest ranches are naturally very family-oriented -- many ranches have been owned and operated by the same families for decades -- and all of them are ready to invite you and yours into the fold.

Guest ranches that provide high-quality, counseled children's programs offer parents peace of mind that when you can't be with your little darlings, they're having the time of their lives -- and making memories that last forever. Indeed, children's counselors are some of the most important employees ranches have. Youth programs are generally broken into divisions of ages 3-5, 6-12, and teens, and fun-filled, appropriate activities are planned for each specific group. For even younger tots, many ranches allow you to bring your nanny or babysitter free of charge or at reduced rates. Almost all ranches also provide babysitting services at an extra charge.

When kids first step foot on the ranch, they realize the whole of the Great Outdoors is their playground. Besides spending time in the saddle, kids can swim, hike, fly fish, do arts and crafts, go on hayrides, camp overnight in real tipis, bicycle and even pan for gold! The fun certainly doesn't end when the snow begins to fall -- guest ranches make ideal winter wonderlands. Who wants to stay inside when there are sleigh rides to go on, frozen ponds to skate across, and powdery slopes to navigate?

You have a tough choice ahead of you, so we've included a short list of great guest ranches across the country to get you started on your search for the perfect vacation for you and your family. We've listed the weekly rates for children and adults, as well as the ranches' guest capacity. This is by no means a definitive list, so your next step should be to call the Dude Ranchers' Association at (970) 223-8440 (www.duderanch.org). Jim and Bobbi Futterer will be happy to send you their official directory of their over 100 members located in 12 states and 2 Canadian provinces, plus a wealth of other information about what to expect from your ranch vacation. Once you contact a particular ranch, the ranch will mail you a complete information packet.

For even more help, check out the granddaddy of guides to guest ranches in the U.S. and Canada: Gene Kilgore's Ranch Vacations: The Complete Guide to Guest and Resort, Fly-Fishing, and Cross-Country Skiing Ranches (John Muir Publications, Santa Fe, New Mexico, 1997). Kilgore knows ranches inside and out, and his expertise has guided many a novice ranch-goer. Happy trails!

ARKANSAS Lost Spur Guest Ranch Route 3, Box 93K Harrison, Arkansas 72601 ph. (870) 743-7787 fax (870) 743-6686 32 guests, $675/adults, $486/children (4-17) CALIFORNIA Coffee Creek Ranch HC2 Box 4940 Trinity Center, California 96091 ph. (530) 266-3343 (800) 624-4480 fax (530) 266-3597 50 guests, $800/adults, $250-$740/children Rankin Ranch P.O. Box 36K Caliente, California 93518 ph. (805) 867-2511 40 guests, $980/adults, $245-$630/children (2-11) COLORADO Aspen Lodge 6120 Highway 7 Longs Peak Route Estes Park, Colorado 80517 ph. (970) 586-8133 (303) 440-3371 (800) 332-MTNS 175 guests, $799/adult, $510/children (3-12) does not include riding Bar Lazy J P.O. Box NK Parshall, Colorado 80468 ph. (970) 725-3437 (800) 396-6279 38 guests, $1075/adult, $895/children (8-12) $695/children (3-7) $300/children (2 and under) C Lazy U Ranch P.O. Box 379 Granby, Colorado 80446 ph. (970) 887-3344 fax (970) 887-3917 120 guests, Winter: $1200/adults $720/children (under 17) Summer: $1700/adults $1200/children (under 5) Cherokee Park Ranch P.O. Box 97 Livermore, Colorado 80536 ph. (303) 493-6522 (800) 628-0949 50 guests, $1100/adults $800/children (3-12) $200/children (under 3) Colorado Trails Ranch 12161 County Road 240 Durango, Colorado 81301-6306 ph. (970) 247-5055 (800) 323-3833 fax (970) 385-7372 65 guests, $1210/person for double occupancy

COLORADO continued Lost Valley Ranch 29555 Goose Creek Rd. Box K Sedalia, Colorado 80135 ph. (303) 647-2311 fax (303) 647-2315 95 guests, $1650/adult $1395/teenager (13-19) $1245/children (6-12), $825/children (3-5) Vista Verde Ranch Box 465K Steamboat Springs, Colorado 80477 ph. (970) 879-3858 (800) 526-7433 fax (970) 879-1413 35 guests, $1800/adult $1300/children (11 and under) IDAHO Hidden Creek Ranch 7600 East Blue Lake Road Drawer K4 Harrison, Idaho 83833 ph. (208) 689-3209 (800) 446-3833 fax (208) 689-9115 40 guests, $1200-$1500/person for double occupancy, $1195/children (3-11) children under 2 are free MONTANA Averill's Flathead Lake Lodge Box 248 Bigfork, Montana 59911 ph. (406) 837-4391 fax (406) 837-6977 120 guests, $1792/adult $1162/children (6-12) $896/children (3-5), $95/infants NEW YORK Rocking Horse Ranch 600 Route 44-55 Dept. K Highland, New York 12528 ph. (914) 691-2927 fax (914) 691-6434 400 guests, $700/adult $320/children (4-16) OREGON Rock Springs Guest Ranch 64201 Tyler Road Bend, Oregon 97701 ph. (541) 382-1957 (800) 225-3833 fax (541) 382-7774 50 guests, $1545/person for double occupancy, $1150/children (6-16) $935/children (3-5), children under 3 are free WYOMING Double Diamond X Ranch 3453 Southfork Rd Dept. K Cody, Wyoming 82414 ph. (307) 527-6276 (800) 833-7262 fax (307) 587-2708 32 guests, $1460/adult $1020/children (6-14) $550/children (under 6)

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