While fans anxiously await the latest in George R.R. Martin’s literary universe, he’s been quietly building another kind of universe in his hometown of Santa Fe, where his new bar serves up craft cocktails and rare relics that might tame dragons.
In Santa Fe’s laidback Railyard District, the newest establishment to open its heavy wooden doors is the medieval apothecary bar Milk of the Poppy, owned by no less than Mr. Game of Thrones himself, George R.R. Martin, affectionately known hereabouts as GRRM. Martin — who’s a longtime Santa Fe resident — wrote the neo-medieval novels A Song of Ice and Fire on which GoT is based, and he’s been a co-executive producer on the hit series. Aficionados of the books and show will know that “milk of the poppy” refers to the potent drink used therein as a painkiller and anesthetic.
Milk of the Poppy is Martin’s third business to be housed in the renovated 1910 adobe building that also includes his Jean Cocteau Cinema and Beastly Books speculative-fiction bookstore. Those two operations have identifying signage. But this spring, a more mysterious enterprise appeared at the back of the building, with only a carved logo of a poppy identifying it. At night, subtly illuminated, it gives off a something-secret, maybe even prohibited, aura.
“It’s like a traveler’s medieval apothecary,” says creative director Al LaFleur, an L.A. transplant, of the 1,200-square-foot lounge that seats 55, plus more on the cozy patio. “It’s kind of fun to have this ‘If you know, you know’ word of mouth. It was definitely intentional to have this speakeasy vibe of ‘Look for the illuminated poppy.’ It just feels fun and mysterious.”
The mystery deepens upon entry — and, by the way, no reservations are taken, so there may be a line. Waiting is worth it. Inside the high-ceilinged, castlelike space, large gemstones glitter in display cases, nestled alongside baby animal skulls, a taxidermied alligator skull, an obsidian shell resembling a dragon’s egg, strange specimens in glass jars, and books with parchment pages. There are romantic floral arrangements in bloody red and purple, rough-hewn carved wooden chairs and tables, spiky metal tree branches, a rounded bar, and spooky metal wall sconces. Staffers in purple jumpsuits circulate on enigmatic missions. A chain mail curtain conceals a VIP booth, where members of the Dark Winds cast have gathered (Martin is an executive producer on that series, too) and so have Paul W.S. Anderson and Milla Jovovich after a screening of In the Lost Lands (based on a Martin short story) at the theater next door. On the sound system, it could be the bluesy pedal-steel guitar of Houston’s Will Van Horn, sea shanties, Prince, Black Sabbath, LCD Soundsystem, world music, or Nigerian disco. It’s unlikely to be Taylor Swift.
“The aesthetic is informed by actual historical pieces from the medieval era. It’s a world of high fantasy and low fantasy and speculative fiction,” says beverage director Sokhang Pan. The signature drink is the aromatic MOTP Milk Punch, comprised of esoteric spirits like pisco and white Armagnac, with coconut matcha cream. It goes down easy. “We came up with the idea of spirits that were very popular in the Middle Ages, like the 1400s,” says lead bartender Andy Pollack. “In the punch, the main spirit is pisco which is a grape-based brandy from Peru. We’re using it with matcha and turmeric so it’s bright green and very pretty.”
Also popular is the pink Paraiso, an exotic concoction of arrack, rhubarb, strawberry fennel, rosen bitter, and egg white. “It takes your mouth on a pretty nice ride,” Pollack says. Other cocktails involve absinthe, cachaça, fernet, Galliano, mezcal, and so on.
Small plates are similarly inventive. The sweet and spicy Devils on Horseback features dates, prosciutto, goat cheese, hot honey, and pistachio, while the delicate First Flowers contains blossoms, farm cheese, and a Calabrian chile purée. For a deeper dive, there’s the Desert Dweller, with a sofrito verde base that merges carrots, peppers, green chiles, celery, onions, rattlesnake, rabbit, and prosciutto, stewed down into a ragout then finished with pappardelle, broccolini, and parmesan. “Honestly, I couldn’t believe it, but that’s the most popular one,” reports director of operations Adam Garcia. “People eat enchiladas and breakfast burritos every day in this state, really they do. You see so many New Mexico restaurants — and I am seventh-generation New Mexican. We had to do something different!” The rattlesnake meat is from Texas, while most of the other ingredients are from the Santa Fe Farmers Market. Everything evolves seasonally.
You’ll find as many tattoos as cowboy hats among the clientele here, and even the odd cape. The crowd leans toward Millennials and Gen-Xers. “We have people who are really into fantasy and enter through the literature sphere. We have people who are local who are happy to find a place that’s open till midnight. We also have people who just really enjoy the thought behind our cocktail program and our wine list,” LaFleur says. What you won’t find? GRRM. “Often people expect to have George slinging drinks behind the bar. And he will not be. Although I’d love to see it.”
Martin does frequent the place occasionally (even as he deals with the pressure to deliver the penultimate GoT novel, The Winds of Winter). “He’s come with his crew a few times and ordered almost everything and just destroyed it,” Garcia says. “I think George likes the community part,” Pollack adds. “I think he likes being among the local Santa Feans. He’s a storyteller. He’s a humanist. I imagine deep down him being around a vibrant space with people from all walks of life coming together, and enjoying it.”
While Milk of the Poppy leans into Martin’s fantasy proclivity, it also manages to fit into the wild American West, on the continuum from medieval traveler’s tavern to Western saloon —the every-town-has-them watering holes for cutting loose. The night I visit, a cowboy-hatted patron plants himself at the bar for the long game. As Garcia sees it, “It’s fun to have a beautiful place that’s not stuffy. We wear these flight suits and the music’s a little louder than other places around town. We see people dancing and talking — the millionaires and the blue-collars are mixing it up.”
“When you come to us,”LaFleur promises, “you get to escape from reality and go somewhere else for a little bit that’s fun and inviting and creative.”
GoT Milk?
We doubt George R.R. Martin had anything to do with the drink menu (besides inspiring it) at Milk of the Poppy. But that’s not going to keep us from fantasizing about kicking a few of these back with Mr. Game of Thrones at his new bar in Santa Fe. After a couple of these potent potions, the City Different will seem all the more enchanted. Drink safely, GoT fans.
MOTP MILK PUNCH
2 ounces Coconut Matcha Cream (recipe below)
1.5 ounces Quebranta pisco
.5 ounce white Armagnac
.5 ounce melon syrup (recipe below)
.25 ounce Pimento Dram
Place all ingredients into a set of shaking tins.
Add ice and then shake.
Double-strain into a large coupe with a large ice cube.
Garnish with freshly grated turmeric.
Coconut Matcha Cream
13.5 ounces coconut cream
6 ounces Calpico (yogurt-flavored drink)
10 grams matcha powder
Place ingredients in a large bowl.
Blend the ingredients using an immersion blender.
Melon Syrup
500 grams diced melon (MOTP uses honeydew)
500 grams white sugar
500 grams filtered water
Place ingredients in a pot.
Bring to a simmering boil.
Hold for five minutes.
Let cool and strain.
PARAISO
1.25 ounces Batavia Arrack
1 ounce Strawberry Fennel Syrup (recipe below)
.25 ounce Sfumato Rhubarb
.25 ounces Rosen Bitter
.75 ounce lemon juice
1 ounce egg whites
Place all ingredients into a set of shaking tins.
Add a barspoon of Batavia Arrack.
Dry-shake without ice; then shake with ice.
Double-strain into sour glass.
Apply a lemon expression and discard.
Garnish with dehydrated edible flowers.
Strawberry Fennel Syrup
500 grams strawberries
500 grams white sugar
500 grams filtered water
10 grams fennel seeds
Place ingredients in a pot.
Bring to a simmering boil.
Hold for five minutes.
Let cool and strain.
Recipes courtesy Milk of the Poppy. For more information, visit milkofthepoppybar.com.
