Piñons Restaurant
Aspen, Colorado
A Rocky Mountain high in the heart of downtown Aspen

By Linda Hayes

In a town where restaurants come and go with the seasons, Piñons is as firmly rooted as the sturdy evergreens from which it takes its name. Perched atop an historic Victorian building on one of Aspen's busiest streets, it has commanded the respect of gourmets world-wide for more than a decade.

Its recipe for success? Try a distinguished ranch-style decor, complete with lodgepole pine columns, a painted tin ceiling, dramatic Western artwork, and sweeping views of Aspen Mountain. Couple the ambiance with a menu that features a wealth of local products--lamb, pheasant, beef--prepared sensitively and skillfully by chef Rob Mobilian.

"We're a Colorado restaurant," explains Mobilian, who opened the place in February, 1988, for owner Paul Chanin. "People want to feel like they're in Colorado, to dine in an atmosphere that's unique to the area on food that may be rooted in the West, but will stand up to the best that New York or other cities offer."

Maître d' Frank Chock, who has also been at his post since day one, adds his own perspective to Piñons' long-standing popularity. "We offer a complete experience. The food is good and the service is there, so it brings people back."

Be forewarned that the room's 23 tables book quickly. (A hint: Chock, who takes reservations 30 days in advance, confirms them daily. Call in the late afternoon, and you might score a spot for that night.)

Once seated, the challenge begins. The wine list offers selections from around the world, including a collection of Rhone-style wines that pair particularly well with the food. Wine steward Jeff Walker will help steer you through, and prices range from $24 to about $450.

Mobilian's formal training at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, shows up on every plate.

A perfect example is a plump breast of Colorado pheasant, quickly sautéed until the meat is tender and the skin delightfully crisp, then sliced and served with a foie gras-studded sage and port wine sauce.

Other top entrees include grilled rack of lamb with roasted ratatouille and lamb jus; Colorado striped bass in a potato crust with red onion sauce; and a blackened pork tenderloin with Calvados and apple-onion compote.

Preface your main course with a selection from the seafood-oriented appetizer list. In addition to oysters on the half-shell, Prince Edward Island mussels baked in puff pastry, and Beluga caviar, you can opt for a flavorful lobster strudel with a morel and chanterelle mushroom sauce.

For dessert, the mixed berry (strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries) gratin baked with a sweet sabayon is tough to beat.

After dinner, you may want to linger at the bar and contemplate your next visit over a Calvados or Sauterne. Be sure to book a future reservation on your way out the door.

Renaissance Restaurant
Aspen, Colorado
An elegant oasis where food and magic meet

By Linda Hayes

There's nothing subtle about Aspen. Its pace is fast and furious, both on and off the slopes. Its reputation for "glitter and glam" is hard to refute. Its edgy boutiques and galleries are more reminiscent of Rodeo Drive than the Wild West.

On the other hand, Aspen is a bastion of tranquillity--a gentle, snow-capped, mountain-ringed escape notable for rich history, knock-out beauty, and a forgiving climate. It all depends on what you're looking for, and where you go to find it.

The same holds true for Aspen restaurants. You'll find buffalo burgers, sushi, fondue, tamales, and ribs, no problem. However, if your tastes are strictly upper crust, book a table at Renaissance Restaurant.

Ask a local concierge about Renaissance, and they'll wax poetic about the elegant, silk-draped setting and opulent cuisine. Both are accurate. But what makes this intimate, 50-seat oasis remarkable is its Chef/Owner Charles Dale.

As a child, Dale developed a discerning palate while residing in the Palace in Monaco, where his father was private advisor to Prince Rainier. Later, Dale honed his skills as an apprentice under Alain Sailhac and Daniel Boulud at Manhattan's Le Cirque, and Georges Masraff in Paris. He was named one of America's 10 best new chefs by Food & Wine Magazine in 1995.

While his restaurant is eight years old, it never fails to live up to its name. Dishes are consistently innovative and exciting.

Dale sums up his culinary philosophy in one simple word: "Alchemy," he laughs. "The place where science and magic meet. You can have a lot of knowledge about food and how it's prepared, but unless you add a part of yourself to it, you won't end up with something special."

To that end, inspiration for dishes may be quite serendipitous. His espresso-blackened tenderloin, a signature dish, was created at a post-season dinner party he was hosting at his home with a group of friends.

Other equally intriguing favorites include an indulgent appetizer of sautéed fois gras served with home-made peach-cornbread cobbler and maple-candied pecans, and a Maine lobster salad in a zesty ginger-lime vinaigrette.

Entrees of note include slow-roasted salmon "bruschetta," a perfectly prepared filet of salmon placed atop crusty bread and served with a dollop of intensely-flavored tomato jam; and rabbit braised in white Port and presented with tiny pasta shells and grainy mustard.

If you should find it impossible to select from such a bounty, opt for the nightly Chef's Tasting Menu--five hand-picked courses which may be paired with selected wines. A vegetarian version is offered as well.

You must not depart without securing one of Pastry Chef Amanda Atchley's exuberant desserts. Bananamanda!, an interpretation of Bananas Foster, is flamed tableside. Chocolate lovers shouldn't miss the chocolate mousse "towers" with malt creme Anglaise.

Sommelier Steven Humble will lead you through his formidable wine list, a two-fold collection of vintage French wines and "esoteric, funky Americans," with prices ranging from $30 to $3400 a bottle.

By the end of the evening, diners feel like long-time friends, coddled by a sensitive, knowledgeable staff and pampered by an Aspen dining experience.

Espresso-Blackened Tenderloin of Beef with Cognac Sauce from Renaissance Restaurant

Serves 4 4 eight-ounce beef tournedos, cut from the tenderloin 1/3 cup decaffeinated espresso coffee, finely ground 1 chipotle chile, finely ground in a spice grinder (or 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper) salt to taste 1/2 cup cognac (or good quality brandy) 4 shallots, peeled and sliced 1/2 cup veal demi-glace (or 2 cups chicken stock, reduced to 1/2 cup) For the Sauce In a 2-quart saucepan, combine the shallots and cognac. Reduce to a syrup (don't worry if it flames), then add the demi-glace or stock. Simmer for a 1/2 hour, skimming, and keep warm. Do not strain. For the Beef Heat the oven to 540 degrees. Mix the espresso and ground chipotle. Heat a 12-inch cast iron sauté pan (or similar heavy-duty pan) over high heat. When the pan is hot, season the beef with salt on both sides, then dredge on all sides in espresso mixture. Place beef in DRY sauté pan (the pieces should be separated on all sides by at least an inch), and allow to sear for 3 minutes. Turn the beef and place the pan in the oven for 5 minutes (beef should be medium rare). Remove from oven, turn beef again, and let rest for 5 minutes. To serve, slice each piece of beef in two and place opened halves on plates. Top with sauce.

Copyright ©1998 Cowboys & Indians

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