PrintBig Water Vines
EnlargeLand of Longfellow’s The Song of Hiawatha and Ernest Hemingway’s boyhood summers, Michigan has been enshrined in literature for everything from its rich Native history and superlative scenery to its bountiful hunting and fishing. Now it’s getting a lot of attention for its wine. Though the Michigan Territory, which once extended as far west as the Dakotas, is now reduced to the Lower and Upper Peninsula bounded by four of the Great Lakes, what a terroir it is. With a flourishing wine industry of 56 vineyards spread over 1,800 acres, the Wolverine State now ranks 13th in the nation for wine production.
On a recent visit I was surprised to find that while some wineries still use foxy native grapes like Concord, more are using French-American hybrids like Vignoles and Chambourcin, and European varietals like Riesling, which do well in cold climates. More temperate northern areas like the Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsula do well with chardonnay and merlot.
My favorites after a week of drinking only Michigan wines include the bright, refreshing Bowers Harbor Vineyards Riesling ($17) from the Old Mission Peninsula and the Chateau Grand Traverse Dry Riesling ($12), with a fresh, clean briskness. The best red I tried was also from Bowers Harbor, a pinot noir with true varietal flavor reminiscent of some of the best out of Oregon. Stop in Folgarelli’s Wine Shop in Traverse City for a diverse selection of local wines.
• Info: www.cgtwines.com, www.bowersharbor.com, www.folgarellis.net.
Issue: April 2010
